Why I love Waves

I run back in to the shallow diving under the frothy push of breaking waves popping up to my feet as I let the wave push at my shoulders and chest I walk into the waist deep water of the break and wait.
Floating on my back, I watch out over my toes in to the brilliant blue horizon. bobbing up and down as smaller waves pass under me I watch a wave grow, it builds and the troth deepens. I swing my legs under me and plant my feet as the water sucks at my legs trying to pull me out, under. I wait watching the wall of water build smooth and imposing. Catch the wave too early, and the ride will be so-so, if I am too late and the wave will crash on me, causing me to be pounded and spun along the sandy bottom.  Now looking up, waiting for the moment, adjusting my position to hit the sweet spot to get the push. 

I crouch and spring up into the front of the oncoming blueness. Twisting towards the shore I stretch out my body and I am suddenly part of the wave, being propelled along as if weightless, harnessing incredible power that gently retreats leaving me lying upon the damp sand.